Porto City Guide

Altstadt, Fluss & Portwein

From the azulejo-clad São Bento station to the fortified cathedral, up the Torre dos Clérigos and into the famous Livraria Lello, then downhill to the sumptuous Palácio da Bolsa and the colourful Cais da Ribeira waterfront. Over the double-deck Ponte Luís I to Gaia's port-wine lodges and up to the Miradouro da Serra do Pilar for the finest sunset.

1. São Bento Station – The walk begins inside the station: São Bento's entrance hall is lined with around 20,000 blue-and-white azulejo tiles depicting scenes from Portuguese history. A spectacular opening - loveliest early, before the crowds.
2. Porto Cathedral (Sé) – Right by the starting point, the fortress-like 12th-century Sé cathedral towers over the old town. From its terrace you get a first sweeping view over the tiled roofs down to the Douro; the azulejo-lined cloister is worth the entry.
3. Torre dos Clérigos – The 75-metre Baroque tower of the Clérigos church is the landmark of the skyline. Climb its 240 steps for the best all-round view over the old town's tiled roofs down to the Douro.
4. Livraria Lello – The 1906 Livraria Lello is considered one of the world's most beautiful bookshops: carved wood, a stained-glass ceiling and the famous sweeping red staircase, said to have inspired Harry Potter. Book a timed ticket in advance - an early slot is far calmer.
5. Palácio da Bolsa – The 19th-century former stock exchange is shown by guided tour only - and it's worth it: the highlight is the Arab Room, an opulent Moorish-style ballroom with gilded stucco modelled on the Alhambra. Best to book ahead.
6. Cais da Ribeira – At the Cais da Ribeira you reach the heart of Porto: colourful, narrow house fronts crowd the water, with restaurants, street music and the bridge in view. From here the "Seis Pontes" boat tours set off, passing under all six Douro bridges in about 50 minutes.
7. Ponte Luís I – The double-deck iron bridge of 1886, designed by a pupil of Gustave Eiffel, links Porto with Gaia. On the upper deck you walk across (beside the metro) high above the river - the view back to the Ribeira is one of the city's finest.
8. Caves Cálem – On the Gaia side, the port-wine barrels of the great houses rest in cool cellars. At Cálem a tour walks you through the history of port and ends with a tasting, often accompanied by a small Fado concert. Best to book the tour with tasting ahead.
9. Miradouro da Serra do Pilar – To finish, the best view of Porto: from the miradouro by the round Serra do Pilar monastery church you take in the whole old town, the Douro and the Ponte Luís I in one frame. Loveliest in the late afternoon, when golden light falls over the city - the metro back is right next door.