Genoa City Guide

Old Town, Palaces & Harbour

From the grand Piazza De Ferrari to the black-and-white striped Cathedral of San Lorenzo and the hidden Doria square of San Matteo, through the caruggi to the palace street Via Garibaldi with the Palazzo Rosso. Up by historic lift to the Castelletto viewing terrace, then down to Renzo Piano's Porto Antico with its aquarium and maritime museum, and by bus to the colourful fishing village of Boccadasse.

1. Piazza De Ferrari – The walk begins on Piazza De Ferrari, Genoa's stately heart. A large bronze fountain sprays in the middle, grand buildings all around: the Teatro Carlo Felice opera house, the Palazzo della Borsa and the façades of former banks. From here the elegant boulevards of the new town and the narrow lanes of the old town radiate out.
2. Cattedrale di San Lorenzo – The Cattedrale di San Lorenzo is Genoa's main church, unmistakable for its façade of black-and-white striped marble meant to display the maritime republic's power. Two lions guard the steps. Inside, the treasury holds relics and precious objects, and an unexploded aerial bomb that struck in World War II recalls the city's luck in war.
3. Piazza San Matteo – Hidden in the lanes lies Piazza San Matteo, a small, almost intact medieval square that once belonged to the powerful Doria family. The black-and-white striped houses and the little church of San Matteo formed the private power centre of the seafaring dynasty that also produced the admiral Andrea Doria. An atmospheric corner away from the bustle.
4. Via Garibaldi (Palazzi dei Rolli) – Via Garibaldi, formerly Strada Nuova, is Genoa's grandest street: a narrow lane lined with the Palazzi dei Rolli, the 16th-century noble palaces of the maritime republic, protected as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. One richly decorated façade follows the next, hiding sumptuous courtyards, frescoes and gardens - a boulevard of superlatives in the tightest space.
5. Palazzo Rosso – The Palazzo Rosso on Via Garibaldi, named for its red façade, is part of the Musei di Strada Nuova. Behind the sumptuous halls with ceiling frescoes hang masterpieces of the collection: portraits by Anthony van Dyck from his Genoa years, plus works by Veronese, Titian and Dürer. At the very top, the roof terrace rewards with a fine view over the old town's roofs.
6. Spianata Castelletto – From the edge of the old town, the historic Art Nouveau lift Ascensore Castelletto carries you up in seconds to the Spianata Castelletto, a balcony high above the city. From the terrace opens the walk's finest view: over the jumble of old-town roofs, the church towers and domes to the harbour and the open sea. A favourite spot for Genoese at sunset.
7. Porto Antico – The Porto Antico, the old harbour, was redesigned by Renzo Piano in 1992 for the Columbus celebrations and reopened the city to the sea. Over the water swings the Bigo, a panoramic lift shaped like a loading crane that raises you up for a 360-degree view. Around it lie bars, the big aquarium, a tropical greenhouse and old, restored sailing ships.
8. Genoa Aquarium – The Acquario di Genova on the Porto Antico is Italy's largest aquarium and one of the biggest in Europe. In around 70 tanks, sharks, dolphins, seals, penguins, jellyfish and a rainforest biotope glide by, and in the glass tunnel the fish swim over your head. Allow a good two hours for the many tanks - a highlight, especially with children.
9. Galata Sea Museum – The Galata Museo del Mare is the largest maritime museum in the Mediterranean, telling Genoa's story as a sea power: from the galleys of the maritime republic through the great emigration to America to today. The highlight floats in front: the real submarine Nazario Sauro, which you can go inside. From the roof terrace opens a wide view over the harbour.
10. Boccadasse – To finish, the bus takes you east to Boccadasse, a tiny fishing village that the big city simply grew around. Pastel-coloured houses crowd around a small pebble cove, colourful boats rest on the shingle, and from the gelato shops you grab a scoop and sit by the water. At sunset, when the façades glow, it's a piece of Liguria in the middle of Genoa.