United Kingdom · City break
Edinburgh City Guide
Edinburgh is Scotland's dramatic capital: the castle towers over the city on an extinct volcano, below it the medieval Royal Mile winds down to Holyrood through hidden closes, and opposite lies the elegant Georgian New Town. Add green view hills, a fairy-tale village by the river and pubs full of whisky and bagpipes. Ready-made routes for two days take you through both worlds - with no planning needed.
🗺️ Open Edinburgh interactively – map & navigationOur walks through Edinburgh
Two routes take you through Edinburgh on foot: the Old Town from the castle along the Royal Mile and St Giles' to the Palace of Holyroodhouse and Arthur's Seat (8 stops, approx. 3 km), and the New Town via Princes Street Gardens, the Scott Monument, Dean Village and Stockbridge up to Calton Hill (7 stops, approx. 4 km). The highlights:
Old Town: Castle to Holyrood
Day one starts at Edinburgh Castle on its volcanic rock and follows the medieval Royal Mile downhill: to St Giles' Cathedral with its crown spire, into the colourful, curving Victoria Street, to Greyfriars Kirkyard and the huge, free National Museum of Scotland. On to the Palace of Holyroodhouse, the royal residence at the foot, and up the extinct volcano Arthur's Seat.
- Edinburgh Castle – The walk begins at the very top: Edinburgh Castle sits on an extinct volcanic rock above the city and is its landmark. Behind the ramparts wait the Scottish crown jewels, the fateful Stone of Destiny on which kings were crowned, and the tiny St Margaret's Chapel, the city's oldest building. Every day at 1 pm the One O'Clock Gun fires. Come early, before the crowds arrive.
- Royal Mile – The Royal Mile is the old town's main artery, a chain of streets a good kilometre long running from the castle down to Holyrood Palace. Bagpipers in kilts, whisky and wool shops and pubs line the way. The real charm lies to the sides: off the Royal Mile branch narrow, often covered alleys, the closes, each with its own story, some leading to hidden courtyards and views.
- St Giles' Cathedral – In the middle of the Royal Mile stands St Giles' Cathedral, Scotland's principal church, unmistakable for its crown spire: eight stone flying buttresses meeting like a crown. Inside, stained-glass windows and the Thistle Chapel, the richly carved chapel of the Scottish order of knights, impress. Here in the 16th century the reformer John Knox preached and made Scotland Presbyterian. Entry is free.
- Victoria Street – Victoria Street is perhaps Edinburgh's most photogenic lane: a curving, climbing street of brightly painted shopfronts with a terrace above from which you overlook the sweep of the row. Its curved scene is widely thought to have inspired Diagon Alley from Harry Potter, and indeed the whole old town breathes that dark, magical atmosphere that inspired J. K. Rowling to write here.
- Greyfriars Kirkyard – The old Greyfriars Kirkyard is one of the city's most atmospheric places: weathered headstones, old vaults and a view of the castle. It's famous for Greyfriars Bobby, the loyal terrier said to have guarded his master's grave for 14 years. And Harry Potter fans find headstones here with names like McGonagall and Thomas Riddell, from which J. K. Rowling is said to have borrowed.
- National Museum of Scotland – The National Museum of Scotland is vast, varied and free too. The collection ranges from dinosaur skeletons and stuffed animals through Vikings and Scottish history to technology, fashion and Dolly the cloned sheep. Its heart is the light-filled Victorian Grand Gallery, a glass hall of cast iron. From the roof terrace you also get a fine view over the old town.
- Palace of Holyroodhouse – At the foot of the Royal Mile lies the Palace of Holyroodhouse, the British monarch's official residence in Scotland. Famous are the chambers of Mary, Queen of Scots, where in 1566 her secretary Rizzio was murdered before her eyes - a stain is said to mark the floor to this day. Besides the state rooms and portrait gallery, the ruin of Holyrood Abbey next door is worth seeing. Behind it begins the green Holyrood Park.
- Arthur's Seat – To close day one, up onto Arthur's Seat, the extinct volcano in Holyrood Park and the city's highest point. The climb from Holyrood takes about 30 to 45 minutes and is steep in places but very doable. At the top, 251 metres above the city, opens a grand 360-degree view: over all of Edinburgh, the Firth of Forth, the hills and, on a clear day, far into the country. Wild nature in the middle of the capital.
New Town, Dean Village & Calton Hill
Day two shows the other Edinburgh: the Princes Street Gardens below the castle, the fairy-tale mill village of Dean Village on the Water of Leith, flower-decked Circus Lane and the laid-back Stockbridge quarter. By tram to Leith for the Royal Yacht Britannia, the Queen's former yacht, and to finish up Calton Hill with the city's best skyline view at sunset.
- Princes Street Gardens – Day two begins in the Princes Street Gardens, the green valley between Old and New Town, laid out on the bed of a lake that was once drained. From the lawns and flower beds you look up to the castle, rising dramatically over the steep rock. At the centre stands the ornate cast-iron Ross Fountain, and the neo-Gothic Scott Monument towers over the whole scene from the edge.
- Scott Monument – The Scott Monument is the largest monument to a writer in the world: a 61-metre Victorian Gothic tower honouring Sir Walter Scott, built 1840–1844 from sandstone now blackened by soot. Beneath the delicate canopy sits a white marble statue of Scott with his dog Maida, while 64 figures around it depict characters from his novels. A narrow spiral of 287 steps leads to four galleries with sweeping views over Princes Street, the Old Town and out to the Firth of Forth.
- Dean Village – Along the green riverside path of the Water of Leith you reach Dean Village, a former mill village that feels, in the middle of the city, out of time. By the river stand the red brick buildings of Well Court with their turrets and gables, mirrored in the water, along with old millstones and quiet corners. Hard to believe the busy New Town is only a few minutes' walk away.
- Circus Lane – Circus Lane in Stockbridge is one of Edinburgh's most enchanting lanes: a cobbled mews street of low former stable houses, colourful doors and lush flowers on the façades, with the spire of St Stephen's in the background. As it's a quiet residential street, please keep the noise down - in return it rewards you with one of the city's most popular photo motifs.
- Stockbridge – Stockbridge is one of Edinburgh's most relaxed and best-loved neighbourhoods, once a village by the river, today a charming residential quarter with indie shops, bookstores, cafés and delis. On Sundays the Stockbridge Market draws crowds with street food and crafts. Here you can have a coffee in peace before heading on to Leith - the real, everyday Edinburgh away from the sights.
- Royal Yacht Britannia (Leith) – In the harbour district of Leith, easily reached by tram, the Royal Yacht Britannia lies at anchor, for over 40 years the royal family's floating home. An audio guide leads from the command deck through the surprisingly plain private quarters of the Queen to the engine room and the officers' mess. A very personal, unusually intimate insight into the life of the royals. Allow about two hours.
- Calton Hill – For the crowning finish, Calton Hill, a low hill at the end of Princes Street, climbed in a few minutes. At the top stands a collection of Neoclassical monuments that earned Edinburgh the epithet Athens of the North: the columned, unfinished National Monument modelled on the Parthenon and the round Dugald Stewart Monument. From here opens the city's most famous view over the old-town skyline - finest at sunset.
Getting there & around
Edinburgh's centre is compact and walkable, though hilly and full of steps and cobbles - sturdy shoes help. Buses (Lothian) and the tram to Leith and the airport add to it; you're most flexible paying contactless by card, a daily cap limits the cost automatically. Payment is in pounds sterling, often with Scotland's own banknotes. And yes: try haggis, taste a single malt and pack a rain jacket - the weather changes here by the hour.
Going out & nightlife
Rooftop bars
- Cold Town House (Grassmarket) – On the Grassmarket, right below the castle, the Cold Town House brewery has a roof terrace with one of the city's best views: Edinburgh Castle on its volcanic rock almost within reach, plus house-brewed beer and pizza. A relaxed spot for sunset in the heart of the old town.
Nightlife quarters
- Grassmarket – The Grassmarket below the castle is one of the old town's liveliest going-out corners: a run of traditional pubs and bars, many steeped in history, with terraces looking straight up to the castle. Market and cafés by day, packed with locals and visitors at night - a good start to an evening.
- George Street (New Town) – In the Georgian New Town runs George Street, the city's elegant going-out strip: chic cocktail bars and clubs in former bank buildings with high ceilings and columns. Smarter and a touch more upscale than the old town - this is where the Edinburgh of glamorous nights goes out.
Food & restaurants
- The Witchery by the Castle – Right by the entrance to the castle sits The Witchery, one of Scotland's most atmospheric restaurants: dark wood panelling, candlelight, tapestries and antiques in 16th-century rooms. On the plates, Scottish classics like Aberdeen Angus beef and game, plus a legendary wine list. Romantic, opulent and an occasion - booking essential.
- The Sheep Heid Inn – At the foot of Arthur's Seat, in the village of Duddingston, the Sheep Heid Inn is one of Scotland's oldest inns, reputedly since 1360. Under low beams there's hearty Scottish pub food like haggis, fish and chips and Sunday roast, with ales and whisky and a historic skittle alley in the back room. A perfect finish after the climb up the hill.
Bars & clubs
- Cowgate – Deep beneath the old town's bridges runs the Cowgate, Edinburgh's club canyon: from the legendary live-music bar Sneaky Pete's and the Bongo Club to dark cellar bars where people dance until morning. Studenty, loud and easygoing - this is where the night carries on when the pubs close.
Stage & concerts
- Festival Theatre & Usher Hall – Edinburgh is a festival city: the Festival Theatre stages opera, ballet and big musicals, and the Usher Hall is the concert hall for classical music. In August the whole city turns into one great stage for the Edinburgh International Festival and the vast Fringe, with thousands of performances - then there is something on everywhere.