Greece · City break

Athens City Guide

Athens is the cradle of Europe: above the city towers the Acropolis with the Parthenon, and below spread the ancient centre with agora and temples, the winding old-town quarter of Plaka and a loud, lively city of millions. In between, marble stadiums, a changing of the guard in traditional dress and rooftop bars overlooking the floodlit temple hill. Ready-made routes for two days take you from antiquity to sunset - with no planning needed.

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Our walks through Athens

Two routes for two days take you through Athens on foot: from the Acropolis with the Parthenon through the Plaka and the ancient agoras to the Monastiraki bazaar (9 stops, approx. 2.5 km), and from the Temple of Olympian Zeus and the Arch of Hadrian past the marble Panathenaic Stadium and the National Archaeological Museum up to the Lycabettus sunset (6 stops, approx. 3 km). The highlights:

Acropolis & Ancient Centre

Day one climbs up to the Acropolis with the Parthenon and the ancient theatre Odeon of Herodes Atticus, then down into the modern Acropolis Museum with the original Caryatids. On through the old-town quarter of Plaka with the tiny island village of Anafiotika, to the Tower of the Winds in the Roman Agora, the Ancient Agora with Greece's best-preserved temple and the bustling Monastiraki square.

Acropolis / Parthenon – Day one begins at the top: above the city towers the Acropolis, Athens' sacred rock, crowned by the Parthenon. The Doric marble temple of the 5th century BC, dedicated to Athena, is the very symbol of classical antiquity. Through the gateway of the Propylaea you climb up, past the delicate Temple of Nike and the Erechtheion with its Caryatid porch. In summer come really early, before the heat and crowds become unbearable.
Odeon of Herodes Atticus – On the south slope of the Acropolis lies the Odeon of Herodes Atticus, a Roman theatre of AD 161 that a wealthy Athenian endowed in memory of his wife. The semicircular stone auditorium seats 5,000 and is still in use: in summer the Athens Festival holds open-air concerts and performances here, with the Acropolis overhead. From above you look down into it.
Filopappou Hill – Opposite the Acropolis rises Filopappou Hill, a green, pine-clad ridge with the best unobstructed view of the Parthenon. On its summit stands the Philopappos Monument, a marble tomb of the 2nd century for a Roman senator and benefactor of Athens, richly adorned with reliefs and statues. From up here, without fences or crowds, you have the whole Acropolis before you - especially magical when it glows gold at sunset.
Acropolis Museum – The modern Acropolis Museum at the foot of the rock houses the original sculptures replaced by copies on the Acropolis - above all the real Caryatids, the maiden figures of the Erechtheion. Through the glass floor you look down on the excavated ancient city below. The crowning finish is the top floor: there the Parthenon frieze is laid out at full size, and through the windows you see the real Parthenon on the slope.
Plaka & Anafiotika – Right below the citadel spreads Plaka, Athens' oldest inhabited quarter: a maze of narrow, often car-free lanes with Neoclassical houses, tavernas and souvenir shops. Climb up to Anafiotika, a tiny corner built by workers from the Cycladic island of Anafi in the 19th century: whitewashed cottages, bougainvillea and cats, like a piece of island village in the middle of the metropolis, the Acropolis above.
Roman Agora / Tower of the Winds – The Roman Agora was Athens' marketplace in Roman times. Its gem is the Tower of the Winds, an octagonal marble tower of the 1st century BC that served as an ancient weather station: it bore sundials, a water clock and a wind vane, and on each of its eight sides the respective wind god is depicted in relief. An astonishingly intact piece of ancient science in the middle of the city.
Ancient Agora – The Ancient Agora was the true heart of classical Athens: market, law court and assembly place, where Socrates taught and democracy had its roots. Above the wide excavation field rises the Temple of Hephaestus, one of the best-preserved Greek temples of all, almost complete with roof and columns. The reconstructed Stoa of Attalos houses a small museum of the finds.
Little Kook (Psiri) – In the lively Psiri going-out quarter lies Little Kook, a wildly over-decorated themed café and one of the most photogenic spots in Athens. The narrow lane in front is wrapped, depending on the season, in hundreds of colourful umbrellas, blossoms, carousel figures or fairy-tale sets that are constantly redone. Inside, giant cakes and waffles pile up. Kitschy, playful and gloriously over the top - a contrast to austere antiquity and a magnet for the camera. Very touristy, but fun.
Monastiraki – To close day one, the bustling Monastiraki square, where ancient, Byzantine and Ottoman layers meet: a small monastery church, an Ottoman mosque and the façade of Hadrian's Library. From the surrounding lanes runs the famous flea market with antiques, bric-a-brac and souvenirs. Look up and the Acropolis rises over the roofs. Here the metro takes you back with ease.

Classic, Modern & Sunset

Day two links antiquity and modernity: the giant columns of the Temple of Olympian Zeus and Hadrian's Arch, the all-marble Panathenaic Stadium of the first Olympics in 1896, the changing of the Evzone guard before parliament on Syntagma Square, and the National Archaeological Museum with the Mask of Agamemnon. To finish, by funicular up Lykabettus Hill for the city's finest sunset.

Temple of Olympian Zeus – Day two begins at the Temple of Olympian Zeus, once the largest temple in Greece. It was built over more than 600 years, until Emperor Hadrian completed it in AD 131. Of the original 104 mighty Corinthian columns, 15 still stand, and one more lies toppled like a row of fallen dominoes - even that hints at the former scale. Much is also clearly visible from the fence.
Arch of Hadrian – A few steps on stands Hadrian's Arch, a marble gate of AD 131 that marked the boundary between the old city of Theseus and the new city of Emperor Hadrian - inscriptions on both sides attest to it. The freely accessible gate frames the Acropolis behind it in a perfect line of sight, a favourite photo motif where antiquity and Roman Athens meet.
Panathenaic Stadium – Through the green Zappeion garden you reach the Panathenaic Stadium, the only stadium in the world built entirely of white marble. On the site of an ancient stadium of 330 BC, it was rebuilt in 1896 for the first modern Olympic Games. Much of the horseshoe-shaped arena with its steep marble tiers is visible from outside even without a ticket. At the 2004 Olympics the marathon finished here.
Hellenic Parliament / Syntagma – On Syntagma Square, Athens' political centre, stands the Hellenic Parliament in the former royal palace. Before it, the Evzones guard the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier - guardsmen in traditional dress with pleated kilt, tights and pom-pom shoes. On the hour they perform a strictly choreographed, almost dance-like changing of the guard in slow motion; the big ceremony with the full unit is Sundays at 11 am.
National Archaeological Museum – The National Archaeological Museum is one of the world's most important for ancient art. Its treasures range from the golden death mask of Agamemnon from Mycenae through Cycladic idols and Mycenaean gold to classical bronze statues like the Poseidon of Cape Artemision. A highlight is the Antikythera mechanism, a 2,000-year-old geared computer for calculating the heavens. The museum is huge, so allow plenty of time.
Lycabettus Hill – For the crowning finish, Athens' highest point: Lykabettus Hill, 277 metres high. Instead of the steep climb, the funicular from Kolonaki takes you up in comfort. At the top, beside the small white chapel of Agios Georgios, opens the city's widest view - over the sea of houses to the floodlit Acropolis, the port of Piraeus and the sea. Come at the blue hour: when the sun sinks and the lights come on, it's the finest moment in Athens.

Getting there & around

Athens' centre is very walkable, and the modern, clean metro links the more distant sights in minutes - look out for ancient finds displayed in many stations. For the Acropolis and the ancient sites the combined ticket is worth it, and in summer come early, before the heat and crowds turn brutal. Tipping is customary, payment is in euros. Take time for a slow frappé, souvlaki on the go and, in the evening, meze with ouzo - in Athens you eat and live outdoors.

Going out & nightlife

Rooftop bars

A for Athens – On the roof of a hotel right on Monastiraki Square sits the bar of A for Athens with perhaps the city's best view: the floodlit Acropolis over the old town's roofs, almost within reach. Cocktails, a young crowd and sunset mood - as busy as it is famous, so come early.

Nightlife quarters

Psiri – North of Monastiraki lies Psiri, the old town's liveliest going-out quarter: narrow lanes full of meze tavernas, bars, rebetiko venues and quirky themed cafés like Little Kook. Sleepy by day, one big swarm at night - the best starting point for a night in Athens.
Gazi & Kerameikos – Around the old gasworks Technopolis lies Gazi, Athens' club and nightlife quarter: big clubs, bars and bouzoukia venues, many of them LGBT-friendly, with the ancient necropolis of Kerameikos right next door. People dance and party here until morning - the loud, modern counterpart to genteel Plaka.

Food & restaurants

O Thanasis (Monastiraki) – O Thanasis at the edge of Monastiraki Square is an Athens institution for souvlaki and kebab: juicy, spiced meat skewers with warm pita, onion and tomato, served in the hectic bustle for decades. Cheap, genuine and always full - the old town's best quick bite, right in the throng.
Ta Karamanlidika tou Fani – Ta Karamanlidika tou Fani near Monastiraki combines a deli and a meze taverna: pastourma and sausage hang at the counter, while small plates of cheese, cold cuts, stuffed vine leaves and Greek wine arrive at the tables. Warm, welcoming and a wonderful introduction to the Greek culture of sharing food.

Bars & clubs

Bouzoukia & Clubs (Gazi/Pireos) – To experience the Greek night at its purest, go to a bouzoukia: live-music clubs where people party, sing and dance to Greek pop and rebetiko until morning, often with carnations tossed on stage. The big ones line Pireos Street and Gazi - loud, exuberant and typically Athenian.

Stage & concerts

Megaron (Athens Concert Hall) – The Megaron Mousikis, the Athens Concert Hall, is the country's leading stage for classical music: symphony concerts, opera, ballet and chamber music in a modern building with excellent acoustics. In summer the classical programme often moves to the ancient Odeon of Herodes Atticus below the Acropolis.

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